
Display at Formaggio, Essex Market, February 2010
Apparently we've all been had. Lured by the promise of anti-oxidants and cardiovascular health we've been buying extra-virgin olive oil by the vat. Thanks to the Mediterranean Diet and the Food Network (and when did EVOO become a word?), olive oil has become big business. Think Jed Clampett and the Beverley Hillbillies.
Now a recent study published by UC Davis shows that many of the lovely green elixirs we see in the stores are frauds - virgin grade or even worse impersonating the high grade stuff. The report, which you can click to here, explains in detail the grading of oils and how samples were graded.
Olive oil is a great ingredient, however. Buy from a reliable source. Specialty shop owners often know producers personally and a good shopkeeper won't steer you wrong. (Know too that the Kirkland Organic, distributed by Costco also got high grades in the UC Davis report!)
There are several types or grades of olive oil each with a distinct function and taste. Extra virgin oil is the least processed and comes from the first pressing of the olives. It has the highest proportion of anti-oxidant compounds and has a distinct taste that can vary a great deal depending upon the origin of the olives, harvesting and freshness. Like coffee and wine, olive oil is often discussed in terms of it's "notes" - floral, grassy or citrus for example and it's origin. You'll probably want to taste a few varieties to find one that you like. EVOO (extra-virgin olive oil) has the most health claims.
Like virgin and other grades of olive oil, it has a high proportion of
monounsaturated fats, but it also has the highest amount polyphenol
anti-oxidants associated with reduced risk for heart as well as
other diseases. Olive oil does not contribute to the imbalance
between omega 6 and omega 3 essential fatty acids. This imbalance has
been associated with a variety of health problems including cancer,
autoimmune conditions and neuro-degenerative diseases. See Dr. Weill's site for more info on this.
My mother really didn't like extra virgin oil, though, because of the distinctive taste and low smoking point when frying. She preferred virgin olive oil. Virgin oil is also a high quality oil extracted by physical pressing without the use of any chemical agents. Since it doesn't have as many of the raw first pressing compounds it has a milder flavor. Large manufacturers like Filippo Berio and Bertoli have also introduced "light" or "mild" olive oils that are filtered and refined to contain still less of the original compounds. The trade off here is less anti-oxidants for higher smoking points and taste versatility.
In Chinese medicine olive oil is neutral in temperature and is considered both
sweet and sour. It has an affinity for the Lungs and the Stomach and is
used to tonify Qi and Blood. The sour flavor also associates olive oil with the Wood element. Think all those people doing "gall bladder flushes" with olive oil. Olives benefit the throat, help clear the Lung
and detoxify in general and olive oil is also great for the skin - topically too!
Olive oil can be infused with other ingredients to make flavored oils. This is pretty simple to do, so that even the most kitchen challenged can turn out "artisanal" gifts with little effort. Be careful, though, because done the wrong way infused oils can kill. Yes, we're talking botulism.
There are many recipes for infused oils. All involve placing herbs, garlic, citrus peel or other ingredients into a clean container with enough olive oil to cover everything. After waiting a few days to a few weeks you have your flavored oil. The danger is in using fresh ingredients. These, like citrus peel, garlic or fresh chili peppers bring water to the party and water can allow for the growth of bacteria like botulism. I know, people do this all the time and get away with it, but to be safe infuse dried herbs (no water) or if you use fresh ingredients store the oil in the refrigerator and use quickly. For more details see e-how.com.